Pizza by the slab, not the pie
Roman-style pizza: baked long in a tray, cut into rectangular slabs, and ordered whole from a list of nine. Why the shape is the point.
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Journal
Notes from the room.
What is coming out of the kitchen, what is open at the bar, and the small things worth writing down.
More from the Journal
A glass before dinner
The hour between finishing work and sitting down to eat is its own thing. Here is how to spend it at the bar.
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Six toasts
Ricotta and honey through burrata. Six things on bread that run from the middle of the day into the evening, and hold up at both ends.
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How to build a board
Six cheeses, five meats, and no house rules about how to combine them. A practical guide to ordering charcuterie without overthinking it.
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The spritz, and the hour it belongs to
Some drinks want a time of day. On the Wine Line Spritz, the aperitivo instinct, and why a short cocktail list is a choice and not a shortage.
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Sixteen behind the curtain
Two ways to have your own night here: a semi-private side of the room for up to sixteen, or the whole room and bar for up to forty.
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Lunch, quick or unhurried
The middle of the day has two entirely different customers. On building a lunch menu that serves the forty minute version and the two hour version equally well.
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House wine is not a compromise
The by-the-glass pour a restaurant chooses says more about it than the expensive end of the list. On house red, white and rosé, and what they are actually for.
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Three ways to end it
A chocolate lava cake, a Nutella pizza and an affogato. Three desserts, and an argument for the one most people walk past.
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Come and sit down.
Coffee and lunch from half past eleven, a glass of wine by six, dinner into the late evening.