The Journal

A glass before dinner

The hour between finishing work and sitting down to eat is its own thing. Here is how to spend it at the bar.

A drink on the bar before dinner

The best hour in the building

Six o'clock, at the bar, is the hour we would pick if we only got one.

The dinner rush has not started. The bar has just switched over from coffee. There are seats. Whoever is working the bar has time to actually talk to you, which stops being true an hour later and does not become true again until close.

You do not need a reservation for it. The bar is walk-in, always.

What to have

If you want something cold and long, the spritz list is where to start. If you want something stirred and serious, say so and let the bar decide. The cocktail list is deliberately short, which is not modesty, it is so that everything on it gets made properly.

Wine by the glass runs red, white and rosé, and there is beer and there are seltzers for anyone who wants the evening to stay light.

Something to pick at

Order snacks. Charcuterie, a few small plates, something to keep your hands busy while the room fills up around you. It is not dinner and it is not meant to be. It is the part of the evening before the evening starts.

Then either go home, or stay, and let us find you a table.

Come and see

A table, whenever suits.

Reserve a TableThe menus